There are a bunch of spare systems out there. You may choose one of the methods in this segment for right side spares and have a totally different plan for left side spares. You’ll change even that depending on lane conditions. You’ll fine-tune whatever method you decide on for your game. As long as you have a system that works for you, that you can refine and change as needed, go for it!

Some spare adjustment systems imply the use of the same ball you are using for your pocket shot. I’m not much of a fan of that. Unlike a strike shot in that if you miss striking, you get another chance, spares are one-shot deals. The big problem with systems like this is that if you have no strike line, you also have no spare game.

Some people think they should have a place to stand and a place to throw for every spare. Since there are 1023 spares, I don’t know how you’d ever have time to do anything but plot spares. Let’s reduce those spares to only four basic zones: the 4/7, the 2 pin or any of its combinations, the 3 pin or any of its combinations, and the 6/10. I’ll give you some general starting positions and targeting alignments.

In all systems I discuss, there won’t be a different shot for each of the corner pin spares. For example, you would use the same approach position and target for the 4, the 7, or the 4/7. The same is true of the 6 and 10 pins. You want to put the ball on both pins whether both are there or not. If you should leave a split, you can easily figure how a very slight move with your feet will impact a pin so that you can slide one pin into another. Some variation might be necessary depending on how far from the foul line you stand, how broad-shouldered you are, etc. I urge you to give the suggested alignments a lengthy trial.

For the beginner to intermediate player -

The Works Almost Anywhere You Go System

With this system, you only have two targets: the 10th board and the 17th board.

1st Shot

The first of the four spare shots is the 4, the 7, and the 4/7. The inside of your left foot is aligned on the 10th board. Your target is the 2nd arrow. You will be crossing the 2nd arrow at an angle going right-to-left toward the left corner of the deck. Since you are playing right-to-left, you will walk right-to-left, finishing further left than the board on which you started, probably around 15.

2nd Shot

The second spare shot is the 2 pin or any of its combinations like the 2/4, the 2/5, the 8, the 2/8, the 2/4/5 bucket, the 2/4/5/8, or the 4/5. Move five boards left of your 4/7 alignment so that the inside of your left foot is on 15. Your target is still the 10th board at the arrows. You’ll be crossing it going right-to-left as with the 4/7, just with less angle. You’ll also walk right-to-left, sliding further left than the board on which you started but not as much as the first shot, landing on about 17.

Since you have a place to stand for the 7 pin (the 10th board) and a place to stand for the 2 (the 15th board), what will you do when you leave both of them? Split the difference, of course, and stand on 12½!

3rd Shot

The third spare shot is the 3, the 9, or the 3/9. This is the first time we’re going to move the target. Since this is a right side spare, we’ll move to the left side of the approach. Stand on the 30th board and target the 17th board between the 3rd and 4th arrows. You will walk a bit left-to-right but not much, maybe a board or so.

4th Shot

The fourth spare shot is for the 6, the 10, and the 6/10. Your target is the same as the 3rd Shot (17 at the arrows) with your feet on 35. You should land on 32 or 33 for this shot. Any further right and you’ll likely miss.

You know this drill: since you have a place to stand for the 3 pin (the 30th board) and a place to stand for the 10 pin (the 35th board), where would you stand if you left the dreaded baby split, the 3/10? Why, 32½, of course. Interestingly enough, between 2005 and 2010, the baby split was only converted 17 out of 35 attempts on television!

Speaking of the baby split, there’s a variation of it, the 3-6-9-10, that is considered the most difficult spare on the Pro Tour. There are several ways to make the spare and a lot more ways to miss it. Some people think they have to throw their strike ball at it since there is double wood. That would work, I guess, if you could perfectly predict exactly how much and where the ball will hook so you could throw it exactly there and hope the ball will take out the 9 pin.

An alternative way to shoot it is cross-lane is from the left with a plastic ball. I know, too weird. Actually, it works very well. Another example of requiring you to be accurate. Not a bad idea…. The ball impacts the 3 pin and drives it toward the 10. The 6 and 9 can’t escape due to the angle of impact from the ball. Pooh pooh it and then try it!

There are five spares you may shoot with your ‘other’ ball.
Use your strike target, alignment, hand position:

You can tweak these alignments slightly depending on lane conditions.

For the more advanced player -

The 4th Arrow System

Use a hard-surfaced or plastic ball or, if you’re really talented, make your high performance ball into a much less reactive ball with your hand position. That would mean thumping it end-over-end with your straight ball release or maybe just using your thumb and middle finger in the ball or even just your thumb. You could also back it up a touch ala Norm Duke. All work great.

This is a very simple system: shoot everything from the 4th arrow! Oh, it might be around 17 for one player and 22 for another. The point is that the target is generally in the middle of the lane and is the same regardless of what spare you get to shoot. You just move your feet.

Let’s take the 6/10, for example. Stand with the inside of your slide foot on 35. You might need to adjust right or left a bit depending on your body size. There are three critical things here. One is that, of course, you’re always going to clearly “see” your ball path across the target toward the 6/10. Another is that your feet, hips, and shoulders are perpendicular to your intended ball path, not to the lane. In other words, a slightly open (to the lane) alignment. The third is that you cannot walk toward the middle of the lane. You should end up on about 33 or so. I find the biggest mistake people make with right side spares is that they walk toward the center of the lane. This causes walking “into the wall” and you’ll either miss to the outside or pull the ball back across your body.

For the 3 pin or any of its combinations, scoot right a couple of boards to 32 or 33. It could be that you need to be on 30 but that is probably about as far right as you want to be. Once you get this alignment okay, you’ll easily be able to tell how much to adjust to make the 3/10 or the 3/9 or whatever. You’ll be sliding no more than a couple of boards right of where you started. If it doesn’t feel right, try it anyway. Make sure you slide about 28 and you’ll be able to determine if that starting alignment feeling of it not being “right” is misleading. Remember, the truth is at the line. How it looks from your starting stance is just perception.

For the 2 pin or any of its combinations, start around 25; for the 4/7, about 20. Get that right heel closed to force your body to be perpendicular to your intended path. For both of these spares, you’ll slide three to four left of where you started. If you are accustomed to shooting left side spares from the right, your perception will be that you don’t have any room with this method. It’s true that you have less lane. However, keep in mind that if it didn’t work, people who make their living bowling wouldn’t use it. You can get used to it. Plus, remember the exaggeration trick. Maybe you need to face two or three lanes left or feel like you’re taking your first step dead left. It doesn’t matter what you do to help yourself get the feel as long as you get it.

So, in a nutshell, your target stays the same and you just move your feet about five left for each shot:

Shot #1 – 4/7 = 20 with your feet and 20 with your eyes.
Shot #2 – 2 pin etc = 25 with your feet and 20 with your eyes
Shot #3 – 3 pin etc = 30 or so with your feet and 20 with your eyes
Shot #4 – 6/10 = 35 with your feet and 20 with your eyes

Left Side Spares From the Left and Right Side Spares from the Right

Whatever system you choose will become comfortable and therefore, your confidence in converting spares with that system will be high. However, when the system fails (doesn’t matter why) or your belief in it fails, you need alternatives that are effective. For example, let’s say you always throw cross lane at left side spares. Today, for whatever reason, it’s not working. Your normal alignment misses left.

Get radical. Move left and instead of visualizing the shot going cross lane, change so that your body alignment is parallel to the channel and square to the lane. Roll your shot down the boards instead of up the boards. This means that you are going to play the hook instead of fight it. Duh! If the lane wants to hook, you merely transfer your strike shot attitude to your spare shots. Although not generally recommended since you’d be playing in an uncharted area of the lane, it could be possible that because this side is smoother, your spare ball will behave more predictably. Playing the left side of the lane for left side spares is sometimes necessary and often desirable.

Occasionally you might need to shoot right side spares from the right side of the lane. When you miss a right side spare to the left, your inclination will be to move more inside in an effort to find oil. On long oil or a sport shot, that may not be the right move. Sometimes you need to move to the outside to find hold. Move outside and line up to shoot the 6/10, for example, across the 10th–12th board. Yes, there is not much available lane. Yes, you might miss. You’re missing now. Might as well give it a try. This is also an excellent alternative method of shooting right side spares if you’re having difficulty keeping your footing on the approach.

Well, that’s the segment on spare shooting. I think it’s just about the most critical part of your game. You’ll never strike enough to make up for having no spare game.